The feature of yukata

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The biggest difference between yukata and kimono is whether you wear undergarment or not. Since you do not wear underwear, yukata is believed to be informal and it is thought to be rude to wear yukata for a formal table.  Also you do not wear tabi socks.
Since you do not wear tabi, you wear geta, not zori sandals.

However, those who are not accustomed to wear geta on barefoot sometimes hurt their feet, so you can wear thin tabi. Moreover, unless you use a thin obi belt, it does not fit yukata. Thus half-width obi made of one cloth is used for that.

Though you can use a short-lined half-width obi belt, the thick obi does not fit yukata, so you should use the thin one. Recently the reversible obi is popular so short-lined ones are apparently rather used more.  Since it is half-width obi, sash pillow, obi bustle, and obi fastener are not needed.

As for obi-ita plate, some people use it because it makes their clothing more beautiful, and others do not use because it is enough without the plate. You can decide as you like. Since you do not have to prepare so much and dressing is easier, you can begin the dressing with yukata if you want to learn it by yourself.

Obidome

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Obi Dome is a decorative accessory put on a Obi JIme cord.

Typically it is put on so-called Sanbu Himo which is a short and little thin Obi Jime though larger Obi Dome can be put on regular Obi Jime.

In general, you don’t use Obi Dome for formal kimono, but this is not because Obi Dome is for casual use but because formal kimono use thick Obi Jime therefore it is merely difficult to put it on. So, it’s common to see people attend to ceremony wearing Homongi with Obi Dome.

However, It’s better not to use Obi Dome for Tea ceremony. It doesn’t suit for Tea ceremony which values simplicity and also there is a norm not to bring in hard materials with you to the ceremony for it might cause some damages on tea items.

There is no strict rule for Obi Dome, so as long as it goes good with kimono, you can pick whatever you like. Some people arrange their brooch to make it.

There is a type of Obi Dome you put it on after you tie Obi Jime not before you tie it. This type is easier to use but you have to be careful because sometimes it falls.

Obijime

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Obijime is a final cord to fasten the tied Obi.

If this cord come untied, Otaiko will also fall, so it’s very important item. In addition,since it comes to the center of Obi, it stands out very much.

There are designed Obijime but it’s better to use easy to fasten ones until you get used to it.  A simple braided style cord would be recommended for beginners. Maruguke style cord which cotton core is wrapped by cloth is also easy to fasten, but it’s rarely seen recently.

There are Hanha Obi for summer and winter. Yurugi gumi style of Obi Jime and Sanbu Himo,which is used to put on Obi Dome, can be wear for all seasons.

Kumi Himo Style Obijime which is for summer is loosely braided. It looks lacy and cool, but since it is loosely braided, it made by hard cords so it would be hard to tie until you get used to it.

Hanha obi doesn’t need Obi Dome but it’s common to use it as an accessory. In this case, you won’t get into trouble if it loosen, so you can enjoy it by selecting rare material cords or knotting it into unique shapes.

Obi age

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Obi age is a cloth to secure the shape of the tied knot of obi.

However, nowadays obimakura plays that role except some occasions, so obiage is positioned as a decorating cloth to cover the obimakura and adjust the top of the obi. Hanhaba obi which doesn’t need obimakura, doesn’t also need obiage, but sometimes you use it as a decoration.

There are tricks for tying them elagantly, and it might be hard if you’re not used to it. One way to do it is not to make a knot, just adjust the shape and insert it between the obi and datejime.

Obiage for winter and summer are distinguished, and there are differences in ranks. Basically, translucent materials are for summer, and otherwise for winter.

Material mainly used are shibori, rinzu, and chirimen. For furisode, obiage with soshibori (elagant patterns on the whole cloth) is normally used, not only because it needs to have high quality, but also because the obiage needs to have volume in order to match with kimono and the obi. For formal kimonos, white obiage with golden strings is the basic, and rinzu or shibori is used.

When wearing casual kimonos, some people enjoy by using rectangular scarves, or items made by cutting cloths.

Hanhaba obi

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Hanhaba obi is a full-lengthed obi which has half a width of normal obi. It is a basic rule to wear it with komon or casual kimonos, and not for formal kimonos. Meanwhile, when wearing hakama, you wear hanhaba obi under your hakama whether you wear furisode or iromuji.

The characteristic of hanhaba obi is that it is easy to use. There is no complicating rules because it’s for daily use, and you can tie them freely. There is no specific rules for patterns or materials, so some people make it by themselves with their favorite cloth.

When tying them by yourself, you tie it in front of your body, and bring it to your back. It is dramatically easy to tie compared to Nagoya obi and fukuro obi which you have to make the shape at your back, and even beginners can make beautiful shapes by practicing a little.

There are a few basic ways to tie, for example bunko (book), or shell’s mouth, but bow tie is just fine, and some people make complicated shapes by using subsidiary ropes. You need considerable length to make a complicated shape, but recently obi with relatively long lengths are sold for that purpose.

Fukuro obi

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For formal kimonos, you use fukuro obi (bag obi).

The length is over 4m, and normally you set it up as nijuutaiko (double taiko knot). You wear them with Furisode, and a gorgeous decorated knot is applied to match the gorgeous furisode.

Besides when you wear formal kimonos, Nagoya obi is frequently used, so there is a image of “fukuro obi=formal dress”, but there are also fukuro obis for casual occasions. Fukuro obi for formal dresses is defined as “obi with golden or silver strings woven into it”, but it is easy to distinguish them because formal fukuro obis are apparantly gorgeous.

It is not for formal use if only a small amount of golden or silver strings are used, or if it naturally matches with komon.

Obishin, which you insert inside the fukuroobi, is made from cotton or silk, but it is not that silk is finer in quality than cotton. The hardness differs, so you should choose depending on your liking. If it is a recycled item, sometimes the oboshin is not inserted because of the preference of the former user. If the material is solid enough, you can use it with no problem. If it is too soft to tie a knot, you can have a core inserted at a shop where they do make-overs.

Nagoya Obi

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Nagoya-Obi is the most used Obi type among all types of Obi. It is normally worn only in the Ichiju daiko musubi (letteraly means “one layer drum knot” and it is common taiko musubi knot) style, but tsunodashi knot is also popular as a natty style.

Nagoya-Obi is often explained as “one end to wrap around the waist is folded and sewn in half”, but unsewn Nagoya-Obi is also commonly seen. This explanation is correct in the light of historical background, but to judge if your Obi is Nagoya-Obi or not, you should see the length of Obi.

The length of Nagoya-Obi is approximatively 3.5m and it is shorter to tie Nijudaiko-Musubi or two layer Taiko-Musubi knot. Nagoya-Obi can be used in different ocassions. As there are a wide variety of types of patterns and textures, we often hesitate which to choose. Basically, you can choose if an Obi goes well with Kimono. For exemple, when you use casual and pretty Nagoya-Obi for Homongi Kimono, the Obi may looks sleazy.

On the other hand,a classical pattern Nagoya-Obi made from exquisite brocade which can be accepted as semi-ceremonial wear, may be too prominent for a Tsumugi type Kimono.

Kimono clothing fabric

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Kimono in general was made from the 100% silk called the pure silk. However, if the pure silk is used, it became very expensive; therefore, the cotton or the wool were used for making casual kimono.
Furthermore, more cool linen might be used for making summer kimono.

Recently, the development of technology allows using polyester for making kimono. The real silk looks good and feel smooth, but it has weak point of poor water resistant. The polyester has a good resistance against the water and it can be worn even in rainy day, but it has weak point of generating the static electricity and looks cheap depending on the fabric.

If you want to wear frequently, the polyester may be recommended since it is easy to handle. However, if it is possible, just try to wear the kimono made from both polyester and pure silk. The difference of clothing materials can be understood if wearing those actually. The used or recycled kimono is mainly old ones, so almost all of those are made of traditional pure silk.

Wearing the kimono made of cotton or wool limits the situations, but it looks cool if casually. Since those are casual kimono, it features the omission of lining and it can be worn without lining even in deep winter.

Kimono About Size

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When you will buy used kimono, there is a problem of sizes. Larger kimono can be nicely worn by hiding extra parts. However, smaller kimono is difficult to cover up even with some techniques.
Used kimono is made by the size of people of old, so most of case, it is small.

First, you will need to check Yukitake. It is a length from the center of back to your wrist.

The best yukitake is either almost same length or 1-2cm shorter. It is difficult to adjust, so it’s the most important part of wearing kimono.
Next, check the Mitake. Mitake is a length of kimono. The same as your height or 10cm longer would be fine. Longer length can be adjusted, but if it’s too short, it’s hard to wear and the worst case, your legs will be shown.

Other parts are relatively made with Mitake, so if your weight is not too heavy or light it shouldn’t be a problem.

How to choose your first kimono

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If your mother or grandmother doesn’t have a kimono, and you don’t have any acquintances that might pass it over to you, you have to purchase in order to have your own kimono.
What should you choose for your first kimono?

If your objective is to go out to play in private, komon or tumugi might be suitable.
Komon can be used in variety of situations. You wear awase for more than half of the year, so awase’s komon is recommended for the first one.

Hanhaba obi is simple and nice for obi, but some people don’t like it because they’re too formal.
Nagoya obi might be safe. Fukuroobi might be nice also, but it becomes a little formal even if you selected a casual one.
You need to pay attention in the choice of patterns. Patterns which include the feature of the seasons can be only worn in that season. In the beginning, geometric designs, flowers that can’t be identified, animals such as dogs or cats might be suitable, for you can wear it all around the year.

Sometimes the design indicates a specifc season, though you thought it was only a geometric design, but that doesn’t matter much. Don’t worry so much about not knowing the rules in the beginning. Even if you do make a mistake, geometric designs don’t stand out compared to non-figurative patterns.