2014年3月 – ページ 2 – FURICLE- for japanese kimono and yukata fan

2014/03/212014/03/21

Haneri (Neckpiece)

[`evernote` not found]

Share on Tumblr

Pocket

Neckpiece is the collar of the undergarment that is slightly visible from the collar of the kimono. However, this refers to the cloth that is sewed to the collar of the undergarment rather than the collar itself.

The reason that the neckpiece is sewed to the collar of the undergarment is because the collar is the part that becomes dirty most easily. The neckpiece helps washing possible because you only need to remove the separate collar.

Nowadays, it mostly represents the meaning of decoration, and things like embroidered neckpiece that seems impossible to wash are also introduced. White is often used on formal costumes, but it’s not necessarily plain white, white garment sewed with light color thread or garment with beads sewed upon it are also often used.

Especially in the case of furisode, the gorgeously embroidered neckpiece in garish colors are often used. On the contrary, even though the color-patterned neckpiece is often used for casual kimono, there is no problem to use the plain white neckpiece at all.

It’s a tradition to show the neckpiece mostly in formal but not casual occassions, but if the color-patterned neckpiece is suitable for casual occasion, it’s considered a good thing to make the neckpiece stand out and visible in many cases.

2014/03/202014/03/20

Momi

[`evernote` not found]

Share on Tumblr

Pocket

Momi is a type of cloth made from red silk. Originally the name was used to describe plain fabric dyed with turmeric and then safflower, and it was characteristic for the incredibly vivid colors. Because both turmeric and safflower are medical herbs, it was said that they were good for health and so they were often used to dye women’s undershirts and the lining of their kimonos.

However, there was one drawback – the colors from the dyed momi could easily transfer onto other garments. The colors from the lining would often bleed into the kimono, and the lining could be stained by the colors of the undershirt. Moreover, because it’s difficult and expensive to use natural dyes,

the momi isn’t produced the way it used to be made before.

The momi cloth made today is recreated with chemical dyes. It’s easier on the wearers because they don’t have to worry about the color transferring to their other clothes, but if you compare them, it is slightly different from the originally made cloth.

Although it’s barely made anymore, the original momi is still being sold in some places as a part of old kimonos. If you aren’t careful, its colors will seep into your other garments, so if you see a kimono lining or undershirt with bright colors, ask someone who knows a lot about kimonos to make sure you know what you’re buying.

2014/03/192014/03/19

Juban (an underwear worn with kimono)

[`evernote` not found]

Share on Tumblr

Pocket

Juban is a type of underwear which you wear under your kimono, but is very important because it forms the fundamental part of your kimono. For formal kmonos, it is a custom to wear white juban, but other than that there is no particular rules.

Juban’s orginal role is to prevent the kimono from getting dirty by sweat, etc. Therefore, the size of juban is required to be nearly the same as the kimono, and does not show from the hem of the kimono. If you are wearing ready-made kimonos which are made by standard sizes, or kimonos made to fit your size, then you can reuse one juban for those kimonos.

However, if you’re wearing given kimonos or recycled kimonos, then you have to choose a juban that matches the sleeve width or sleeve length of the kimono you want to wear. To resolve this problem, jubans which sleeves are easily detachable are commonly seen recently.

Juban’s another role is to fix and maintain the shape of the collar. For that purpose, you attach haneri, and put in the erishin. As for the material of juban, silk was common in the past, but nowadays for common types, cotton is used for the corsage, and polyester is used for the collar and the sleeves to make it easier to wash.

2014/03/182014/03/18

Doura (body lining)

[`evernote` not found]

Share on Tumblr

Pocket

Doura is a kind of back fabric of kimono, which is used in the area near the body. You can image that there is hakkake around doura

Compared to hakkake which can be seen from front, doura cannot be seen from front, so not the look but the functionality is made much of. Generally, habutae, which is solf and smooth, is used for doura. However, polyester doura should be used for polyester kimono because it cannot be washed, which is a special feature of washable kimono. Sometimes cheap and strong cotton doura is used for making tsumugi and casual komon.

Doura is basically white, but sometimes colored or patterned doura is used, which is a “hidden fashion”.

Sometimes doura of old kimono is discolored unevenly. This is because the old glue used for doura got discolored. The original color cannot be restored.
Please don’t worry about discoloring because now the quality of glue is better than before and this symptom doesn’t appear in the new doura. Unlike mold, glue won’t spread soon. But you will be worried about keeping your kimono whose front fabric is closely attached to the glue which might get discolored. It is recommended that you should replace doura of your precious kimono.

2014/03/172014/03/17

Hakkake

[`evernote` not found]

Share on Tumblr

Pocket

Hakkake is a kind of back fabric of kimono, which is used in the area near the edge of a lined kimono. Different from European clothes, you can see Hakkake exposed a little from the front. This is for protecting edges of kimono which are easy to get worn. Hakkake of hems and cuffs will get worn first.

Old Hakkake will be replaced with a new one at a specialty store. Several kinds of fabric will be used for Hakkake: general fabric for Hakkake, self fabric and special fabric for front. There is a custom that self fabric is used for formal kimono. Both the self fabric and another fabric are used in other kimonos.

There are hakkake of monotone color and gradation color. Hakkake of gradation color is called “bokashi hakkake”. This is for keeping the boundary line of hakkake and dori from falling on the front fabric of faint color. You can decide which hakkake to use on your preference because there is no rule.

The color of hakkake will make effect on the impression of kimono. This is why sometimes people change hakkake which is still unworn, when they get tired of it.

2014/03/162014/03/16

The history of the Kimono

[`evernote` not found]

Share on Tumblr

Pocket

It has been said that the current pattern of the Kimono was from the Edo era. The Twelve-layered ceremonial kimono is an item from an older era. And there are differences when comparing this to the current Kimonos.

The late Edo era is a peaceful era and it is known that various cultures evolved during this time. It is believed that the Kimono culture was developed and established during this time.

Western clothes were trending during the Meiji era so these were worn during this time. Despite that, Japanese clothing has been a norm for the masses and it can be said that the Kimono culture was born and established during the Edo era.

The Taisho Era is the era which is painted in “Haikara san ga tooru” (Here comes ‘Miss Modern’). The kimonos were influenced by the Western style and there were created gorgeous things. The most popular antique kimonos were in general those from this Era.

Actually, we are not talking about such old times, as the second half of Showa Era, when the Western style clothing started spreading and the kimonos began to be worn only on special occasions. People thought once that the kimonos were out of fashion, but it was reconsidered as a fashion item, and recently, the number of people wearing kimonos increased.

2014/03/152014/03/15

How to enjoy kimono out of the pattern

[`evernote` not found]

Share on Tumblr

Pocket

Kimono and obi, which can be used for a long time, will get so dirty and worn that you can’t wear them. Even if you inherit a lot of kimonos, sometimes you don’t know what to do with them because your lifestyle has changed.

Beautiful kimono which is too small to wear can be used as interior articles. It is easy to use as a tapestry with a bar in its sleeves.

In the case you don’t know where to decorate with it or it is not worth decorating, you can use it as a remake material. Many people may hesitate to cut a kimono. However, people in the old days remade old kimonos again and again until the end.

It may be good for a kimono to be remade into a modern article and be cherished, instead of being put away.

A kimono in a good condition can be remade into a dress. If it has a lot of worn areas, you can cut out the unworn area to use for a patchwork. If the unworn area is quite large, it can be used for a bag, a pouch and a cushion.

2014/03/142014/03/13

Kimono for men

[`evernote` not found]

Share on Tumblr

Pocket

When we try to study about kimonos, most of them are for women. It may be because it is “not masculine” for a man to get interested in fashion such as kimonos. Of course, however, there are some men’s kimonos and many men like kimonos.

You can fashion after a rakugo performer wearing kimono. The formal style is a haori coat and a hakama skirt with five crests, which can be seen in Announcement of a newly-assumed name. In a more relaxed performance, you can see various kinds of kimonos from casual to formal style.

The biggest difference between women’s kimono and men’s kimono is that men’s kimono doesn’t have “ohashori”. Men’s kimono can be put on easily because you don’t have to fix ohashori. Men’s obi is thinner than women’s obi. It is tied as kainokuchi (shell’s mouth) and ichimonji (straight line), whose knots are not so big.

There is a custom of printing eraborate patterns in the backing cloth of haori (haura) and juban (kimono slip) because men’s kimono is simple.
Some of women’s haura and juban are gorgeous. But many of men’s haura and juban have such a tremendous impact that there are collectors of those.

2014/03/132014/03/13

The things you shoud be careful when you wear Japanese Kimonos

[`evernote` not found]

Share on Tumblr

Pocket

Sometimes people don’t know how to walk when they wear Kimonos for the first time. It’s because their feet are wrapped up completely, so it makes hard to step forward. But no need to worry it’ll be ok and you will find it comfortable as you walk.

Though, hems of Kimono will be rolled up if you stride , so it’s better to walk in small steps than usual.

The front part of the Kimono (Uwamae) will curl up and be seen during days with strong winds or when climbing up or down the stairs. If you are somewhat conscious of “that thing”, then you can lightly press it with your right hand. Due to this, it is better that you do not bring any big luggage in your right hand.

You will tend to forget about the long sleeves when you are not used to wearing it. Please take caution to avoid hooking the sleeves when picking up things. In addition, the belt might be tangled by people or things in narrow areas. This is also a reason that the belt gets dirty for extra care is needed.

2014/03/122014/03/12

How to maintain your kimono in good shape

[`evernote` not found]

Share on Tumblr

Pocket

When you take off your kimono, hang and dry it out of direct sun light. Use a hanger dedicated to kimono, and don’t you standard hangers because those make the shoulder of kimono getting out of shape.

The reason for drying out of direct sun light is to remove the moisture trapped in fabric while wearing, so it is enough only for several hours. If it is a long time, it may cause to get out the lining from proper position with respect to the outer fabric: it also causes discoloration due to the sun light.

When the kimono is dried enough, it is better to fold it over as soon as possible. While drying, please shake of dust.

Please wash gently with a soft cloth and use a soft brush. During the old days, I was told to wipe the collar with benzene but it won’t get that much dirt if you only wear it once in a while. You might damage the Kimono if you fail so I cannot recommend it due to the risk and the effect.

Request the cleaning with a professional. The go clothing store will introduce one if you consult with them. The cleaning frequency would differ depending on the number of times it is worn, but please think of it as a lower frequency compared to ordinary clothes.
Kimonos are prone to damage when washed.