Tomesode
The tomesode is the most formal kimono for married women. It refers to the kimonos made by cutting and shortening the sleeves of a furisode, typically after marriage. The kanji for “tome” means “to stay”, which is said to refer to a married women staying with her husband’s family. From the late Edo period, the tomesode with its shortened sleeves became the standard wear for married women.
There are two types of tomesode – the kuro (black) tomesode, and the iro (color) tomesode. Both types are distinguished by lavish and elaborate designs on the skirt of the kimono. The formality of the kimono can be differentiated by the number of family crests on the kimono – five, three or one. They are usually worn at celebratory occasions like weddings. A kuro tomesode with five crests ranks highest in formality for married women.
Iro tomesode can be worn by both married and unmarried women, and an iro tomesode with five crests is considered to be as formal as a kuro tomesode. At the highest level of formality, they are usually matched with an elegantly-patterned gold or silver obi, tied in a nijuudaiko musubi (double layer taiko). Kimonos with three or one crest are often worn at less formal occasions like parties.
To match the tomesode, the bag and the zori would usually be silver or gold on a white base.
These are preferably made of cloth, but beaded or enamel accessories can be used for less formal occasions.
[quote style=”boxed”]In Japanese
留袖
既婚の女性の着もので、一番格の高い礼装です。留袖というのは、振袖の長い袂を切って脇や袖を詰めた着物で、婚家に長く留まるという意味でも留袖と呼ばれます。振袖に対して普通の袖丈で留袖として近世後期から既婚女性に用いられてきました。
留袖には黒地の黒留袖と黒以外のさまざまな色の色留袖があり、裾模様が豪華に施されています。さらに五つ紋、三つ紋、一つ紋で格が変わり、礼装の度合いが軽くなっていきます。
留袖を着る場は、最もおめでたいお祝いの席です。黒留袖の五つ紋は既婚女性の正装です。色留袖は既婚未婚なく着る正装で五つ紋で黒留袖と同格になります。どちらも豪華な金銀の格調高い文様の袋帯で、二重太鼓にします。こちらは最上級の礼装になり、着る機会が限られることから、三つ紋や一つ紋にして格を下げ、ドレスダウンすることで幅広くお祝いの席やパーティーに着る傾向もあります。
バックも草履も金銀をあしらった白を基調とするものにします。布製が格上ですが、準礼装ではビーズやエナメル素材などでもよいでしょう。
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