Hassun Nagoya and Kyu-sun Nagoya
There are 2 types of Nagoya obi, hassun Nagoya obi and kyu-sun Nagoya obi.
Hassun Nagoya obi are made of obi (kimono belt) fabrics which are hassun (about 30cm) in width, and only their tare (trails) are folded and sewn. The part wrapping around the body stays as they are, and there are no sash padding are used either.
As no sash padding are used, obi fabric itself is stiff. But it’s distinctive because the finished obi are light. Kyu-sun Nagoya obi are made of obi fabrics which are kyu-sun (about 34cm) in width, and it is worn so both sides of obi are folded into the inner part of obi. They are folded in two at the trunk, and in some cases lining fabrics are sewn without folding obi. In either case, sash padding are inserted. Obi fabrics are thin and soft. But sash padding are inserted, so the finished obi are heavy and thick. There is no limitation of obi fabrics like hassun Nagoya obi, so many Nagoya obi seen nowadays are kyu-sun obi.
Because it is easier to make hassun obi, and kyu-sun obi’s finishing look is more profound, it is said that hassun obi are more for casual use. However, it is hard to say which obi are of higher rank as there are gorgeous looking hassun Nagoya obi and light-weight kyu-sun Nagoya obi. Both obi can be used as Nagoya obi.