FURICLE- for japanese kimono and yukata fan

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Sakizome

Sakizome is to dye a yarn before the weaving process and the product itself using such yarn are also called so.
The sakizome kimono is called “woven kimono” and the sakizome obi is called “woven obi”. In contrast to this, atozome is to dye a fabric woven by a white yarn.While sakizome allows to dye into the core and retain the color from losing and fading, the color can’t be changed by dyeing later or a pattern cannot be added later. The texture of the original yarn may change since the process for dyeing will be added to the raw yarn. Tsumugi is a typical sakizome product which has different individuality based on the production regions.

The most simple sakizome product is without a pattern but there is not that much product without any pattern.
As for kimono, stripe pattern and lattice pattern are woven using several colored yarn in general. Kasuri method is used for more elaborate product. As for obi, a more elaborate pattern will be woven. There are Hakata-ori and Nishijin-ori for typical sakizome obi.

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Kasuri

Kasuri is a cloth woven by yarn-dyed threads to produce designs. It may sound easy to do, but actually, it requires high techniques and time to make as the yarns should be dyed back-calculated from the designs on the completed cloth and the cloth should be woven as designed.The dyed yarns are called “kasuri ito”, and further classified as “tate kasuri” (warp kasuri), “yoko karusi” (weft kasuri) or “tateyoko kasuri” (warp and weft kasuri) according to the direction/directions in which the yarn is used.

Kasuri ito is dyed after the yarn is partly twined with other threads to leave such parts undyed.For dyeing the yarn, most of the producers follow the method to twine the yarn with anti-dyeing threads, but there is another way of doing this by weaving in anti-dyeing threads by a weaving machine. This method allows delicate dying that hands cannot do, and for example, the elavorate designs of Oshima Tsumugi are produced by the yarns from this method.A hand woven Kasuri is a treasure that requires several months of work of a highly skilled craftman.At present, the techniques are preserved as ones of the traditional craftworks, while for the products for the general public, the production processes have been widely mechanized to achieve affordable costs.

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Sikkai

“Sikkai” is a Japanese word that means “all” in English.But this word means “a trader who undertakes anything about kimonos” in the kimono industry. The words “Sikkaiya” and “Sikkaigyo” have that same meaning as “Sikkai.”
You probably wonder what’s the difference between a kimono shop and “Sikkai.”The answer is,a kimono shop sells kimonos and “Sikkai” undertakes repairs and processing of kimonos.

For example,”Sikkai” wash kimonos,but a kimono shop doesn’t do that.
And these days,it’s difficult to find “Sikkai” immediately. In many cases people consult a kimono shop which will find Shikkai easily, and the shop will introduce Shikkai to them. Not a few kimono shops also do Shikkai business even if it is another one. There are various jobs of Shikkai. Ordinally people will ask them to do “Maruarai” (wash a kimono just as it is), “Shiminuki” (stain removal) and “Kakehagi” (invisible mending). They also do “Sumpo naoshi” (alteration), “Somekae” (re-dyeing) and “Mon-ire” (drawing family crest) as a little larger scale jobs. When you often wear kimono, you should find Shikkai whom you can ask such jobs freely. He/She will help you in the nick of time.

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Kitsukeshi

Kitsukeshi is a person who dresses kimono on people. However, the people who can’t wear kimono do not always ask kitsukeshi to dress them. Even people who can wear kimono by themselves often ask kitsukeshi to dress formal kimono on them.

At the end of Heian period, pompous attires began to be in fashion among people in high position. And a special tequnique is needed to dress the attire beautifully. The technique is called “emondo”, and the person who dresses the attire on people with this technique is called “emonsha”. This emonsha is thought to be the beginning of kituskeshi. This profession was needed by only people of upper class in those days. In Edo period, however, when wide obi is getting popular among common people, kitsukeshi as the present days is said to have appeared. Kitsukeshi is not a recent profession but a profession from old days against our expectations. In most cases maiko of Kyoto is dressed by men kitsukeshi. This is because kimono of maiko is really gorgeous and heavy, and it needs power to dress it on her.