投稿者: furicleadmin

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Upon wearing a kimono, there is a turn of phrase “emon o nuku” (pull down the back portion of collar), and the “emon” in this phrase is mean to say the collar, particularly, it is meant to say the back portion of collar.

There is also a turn of phrase “emon o awaseru”, and the “emon” in this phrase is meant to say the front portion of collar.

It is unknown what the turn of phrase “emon o nuku” meant to say is, but there is an opinion that it has begun to use the phrase out of practice to pull down the back portion of collar of a kimono until a position for not the hair being touched during the time when the voluminous back hair was popular when setting the hair. Now, it is used as one of techniques to show beautiful appearance in wearing a kimono.

How large portion shall be pulled down is different depending on a kimono, and the basically, the more refined kimono needs the more large back portion of collar to be pulled down; therefore, the back portion of collar in wearing a bridal kimono is pulled down until a position on which the back of bride could be almost seen.

For a daily worn kimono, it is said to be better to pull down until a position where the fist is about to fit between the neck and collar. For the most casual kimono, yukata, it is said to be approximately at a position for two fingers.

In addition, it is said to be better for elderly women to pull down lower than younger women.
However, there is a fashionable trend of how lower to pull down, and it is preference of a person to wear kimono at all.It tends to pull down smaller for those who are not got used to wear kimono, so it might be just good if pull it down to feel rather lower.

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Neckpiece is the collar of the undergarment that is slightly visible from the collar of the kimono. However, this refers to the cloth that is sewed to the collar of the undergarment rather than the collar itself.

The reason that the neckpiece is sewed to the collar of the undergarment is because the collar is the part that becomes dirty most easily. The neckpiece helps washing possible because you only need to remove the separate collar.

Nowadays, it mostly represents the meaning of decoration, and things like embroidered neckpiece that seems impossible to wash are also introduced. White is often used on formal costumes, but it’s not necessarily plain white, white garment sewed with light color thread or garment with beads sewed upon it are also often used.

Especially in the case of furisode, the gorgeously embroidered neckpiece in garish colors are often used. On the contrary, even though the color-patterned neckpiece is often used for casual kimono, there is no problem to use the plain white neckpiece at all.

It’s a tradition to show the neckpiece mostly in formal but not casual occassions, but if the color-patterned neckpiece is suitable for casual occasion, it’s considered a good thing to make the neckpiece stand out and visible in many cases.

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Momi is a type of cloth made from red silk. Originally the name was used to describe plain fabric dyed with turmeric and then safflower, and it was characteristic for the incredibly vivid colors. Because both turmeric and safflower are medical herbs, it was said that they were good for health and so they were often used to dye women’s undershirts and the lining of their kimonos.

However, there was one drawback – the colors from the dyed momi could easily transfer onto other garments. The colors from the lining would often bleed into the kimono, and the lining could be stained by the colors of the undershirt. Moreover, because it’s difficult and expensive to use natural dyes,

the momi isn’t produced the way it used to be made before.

The momi cloth made today is recreated with chemical dyes. It’s easier on the wearers because they don’t have to worry about the color transferring to their other clothes, but if you compare them, it is slightly different from the originally made cloth.

Although it’s barely made anymore, the original momi is still being sold in some places as a part of old kimonos. If you aren’t careful, its colors will seep into your other garments, so if you see a kimono lining or undershirt with bright colors, ask someone who knows a lot about kimonos to make sure you know what you’re buying.

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Juban is a type of underwear which you wear under your kimono, but is very important because it forms the fundamental part of your kimono. For formal kmonos, it is a custom to wear white juban, but other than that there is no particular rules.

Juban’s orginal role is to prevent the kimono from getting dirty by sweat, etc. Therefore, the size of juban is required to be nearly the same as the kimono, and does not show from the hem of the kimono. If you are wearing ready-made kimonos which are made by standard sizes, or kimonos made to fit your size, then you can reuse one juban for those kimonos.

However, if you’re wearing given kimonos or recycled kimonos, then you have to choose a juban that matches the sleeve width or sleeve length of the kimono you want to wear. To resolve this problem, jubans which sleeves are easily detachable are commonly seen recently.

Juban’s another role is to fix and maintain the shape of the collar. For that purpose, you attach haneri, and put in the erishin. As for the material of juban, silk was common in the past, but nowadays for common types, cotton is used for the corsage, and polyester is used for the collar and the sleeves to make it easier to wash.

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Doura is a kind of back fabric of kimono, which is used in the area near the body. You can image that there is hakkake around doura

Compared to hakkake which can be seen from front, doura cannot be seen from front, so not the look but the functionality is made much of. Generally, habutae, which is solf and smooth, is used for doura. However, polyester doura should be used for polyester kimono because it cannot be washed, which is a special feature of washable kimono. Sometimes cheap and strong cotton doura is used for making tsumugi and casual komon.

Doura is basically white, but sometimes colored or patterned doura is used, which is a “hidden fashion”.

Sometimes doura of old kimono is discolored unevenly. This is because the old glue used for doura got discolored. The original color cannot be restored.
Please don’t worry about discoloring because now the quality of glue is better than before and this symptom doesn’t appear in the new doura. Unlike mold, glue won’t spread soon. But you will be worried about keeping your kimono whose front fabric is closely attached to the glue which might get discolored. It is recommended that you should replace doura of your precious kimono.

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Hakkake is a kind of back fabric of kimono, which is used in the area near the edge of a lined kimono. Different from European clothes, you can see Hakkake exposed a little from the front. This is for protecting edges of kimono which are easy to get worn. Hakkake of hems and cuffs will get worn first.

Old Hakkake will be replaced with a new one at a specialty store. Several kinds of fabric will be used for Hakkake: general fabric for Hakkake, self fabric and special fabric for front. There is a custom that self fabric is used for formal kimono. Both the self fabric and another fabric are used in other kimonos.

There are hakkake of monotone color and gradation color. Hakkake of gradation color is called “bokashi hakkake”. This is for keeping the boundary line of hakkake and dori from falling on the front fabric of faint color. You can decide which hakkake to use on your preference because there is no rule.

The color of hakkake will make effect on the impression of kimono. This is why sometimes people change hakkake which is still unworn, when they get tired of it.