Kuro tomesode
This is the formal kimono for married women.
“Kuro tomesode” refers to a black tomesode with a patterned skirt and five family crests. The light, undyed crests must be placed at five points – one at the back, two on the outer sleeves and two at the front shoulders. The same rule applies for both modern and traditional designs.
The kuro tomesode is worn by the mothers of the bride and groom, married relatives and the matchmaker at wedding ceremonies. Different designs and colors are worn, depending on the age of the wearer. Younger women may wear larger designs, while older women would wear smaller designs placed closer to the hem of the kimono. Hitokoshi chirimen (a high quality crepe) is used to make the kimono, and the same fabric is used for the hakakke (parts of the lining that can be seen).
The kuro tomesode is usually matched with a gold or silver Nishikiori obi. A different obi can be worn if the design on the kimono is considered too showy for the wearer. The wearer must also have a gold folding fan. Other parts of the kimono (obiage, obijime, han-eri and nagajuban) are traditionally white in color, but gold or silver designs on a white base can be used for a more elegant look. Accessories should also be white or gold/silver to match.
[quote style=”boxed”]In Japanese
黒留袖
既婚女性の礼装です。
五つ紋付き、黒地、裾模様の留袖の略を、黒留袖といいます。家紋の中をすべて白で染め抜く、背、両外袖、両胸の五か所にある染め抜き日向五つ紋を必ず付けます。裾模様は古典模様でもモダンな柄でも格は変わりません。
黒留袖は、結婚式では新郎新婦の母、身内の既婚者、仲人が着るものです。着る方の年代で柄の大きさや色使いが変わります。若い人では裾から高い位置まで広がる模様を、年配になるほど裾に近く低い模様になります。生地は一越縮緬で、裏地の裾部分にも表地と同じ生地の共八掛を用います。
帯は金銀を使った錦織の袋帯を合わせます。裾の模様が年とともに派手に感じるようであれば、帯を変えて年令に相応の装いなるようにすることもできます。必ず黒骨・金銀扇面の扇子を持ちます。下着を重ねて着た名残の白の比翼仕立て、第一礼装の小物 帯揚げ、帯締め、半衿、長襦袢はすべて色は白と決まっていますが、白地に金銀使いのもので豪華にすることもできます。金銀、白で小物もすべて格調高く揃えることになっています。
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